To Assess Undertone
To determine and assess undertone: compare cool & warm drapes (2 piece)
Use either gold (warm) and silver (cool) fabrics or rose (cool) and peach (warm) fabrics: Have client place one hand on each fabric pair to see variations of skin tone. An all over evenness to skin tone most likely means that fabric tone is correct for the skin.
Quick Seasonal Analysis
A quick session to determine season using undertone drapes (8 piece):
Once you have determined whether the client is warm or cool as above, the undertone drapes will help to place them in the proper seasonal range.
Cool: black, taupe, hot pink, soft pink
Warm: brown, camel, orange, peach
Drape your client with the correct set of seasonal undertone drapes looking for the skin, eye's and hair reaction to each color. (The hair, when color enhanced, should be peaking out through a cap on the front of the head. If the color is not fresh, the natural hair color will show here) and will visually deepen when the correct color is held against the client's skin. Eyes should appear brighter and clearer, and skin tone should visually improve, diminishing lines, wrinkles, creases, redness and acne. The darker the hair and skin, the darker the color that should be worn. The darker colors in the undertone drapes, for example: Cool ~ black, hot pink will offer more intensity and will be meant for the Winter palette, whereas the soft pink and taupe will be meant for the summer palette. Using this quick method will help you to assess the seasonal palette quickly in large settings. Remember, practice makes perfect.
Full Drape Set Analysis
To determine season with a full drape set (60 piece):
If cool; compare summer & winter drapes
If warm; compare spring & autumn drapes
Note: the darker the natural hair color, skin tone and eyes, the more contrast the client will have and the darker the color palette that can be worn by the client.
Hints: (for natural hair color only)
Blondes, ash blondes and light to medium browns = mostly Summers
Honey and strawberry blondes = mostly Springs
Dark strawberry blonde, Redtones, med to dark = mostly Autumns
White, salt and pepper (mostly winter, some exceptions with warm tones which usually have some yellowing when their gray comes in)
Medium to dark brown, medium to dark mahogany = mostly Winters
Determining Tonal Flow
To determine tonal flow (or extended colors of the client), you will need flow drapes. (18 pieces)
The procedure is as follows:
If Winter: compare winter, clear, cool and deep drapes
If Spring: compare spring, light, warm and clear drapes
If Summer: compare summer, soft, cool and light drapes
If Autumn: compare autumn, deep, warm and soft drapes
You may also purchase our tonal flow assessment tool to help you determine the season and flow (tonal) without using drapes. Easy to use with no training needed.
Color Analysis Complete Session
1) Prepare the space with mirror and full spectrum lighting (grow lights work as well)
2) Prepare the client: no makeup, tinted contact lenses, eye glasses or earrings
3) Cover the client in a white cape (or jacket) and cap the hair if it color enhanced showing just the front
edge of the hair line which usually has the natural hair coloring peaking through if their hair color is not
fresh. You may wear a white lab coat or smock.
4) Visually assess client's natural coloring: hair color, eyebrow color, eye pattern, skin tone. (use tonal
tool to help make your job easier with this)
5) Determine her season by using the drapes as defined on first page and using the hints.
6) Once you have determined her seasonal palette, demonstrate her range of colors for her season.
7) Each seasonal palette is on a ring. Identify the “wow” colors for your client.
8) Remove cape and scarf
9) Demonstrate the swatch wallet
10) This is the time to also show her the appropriate hair and makeup colors and offer her a free makeup
analysis/application if you choose too.
TEB Associates International
24 Maple Manor
Vergennes, VT 05491