Figure Challenges
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Shoulders
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What to Avoid
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What to Look for
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Narrow or Sloping
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Dolman or raglan sleeves; strapless, deep or narrow V necklines
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Shoulder pads, epaulettes, puffed sleeves. Boat shaped or slashed necklines
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Broad
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Large shoulder pads, unnecessary details, such as epaulettes or strapless necklines
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Raglan or dolman sleeves; V-necks; long necklaces to break horizontal line of shoulders
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Neck
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What to Avoid
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What to Look for
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Short
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Clutter around the neck
Any high-neck styles
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Open Collars, Shawl Collars, V-Necklines, Short Hair Styles (these styles bring the eye downward and lengthen the neck)
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Long
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Short hair and low necklines
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High collars (mandarin, standup, etc.) turtle necks, cowl necks; accessories include chokers, necklaces, ribbon or scarves.
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Bust
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What to Avoid
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What to Look for
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Small
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Open or deep necklines. Clingy or tight tops.
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Extra details like pockets, lapels; interesting patterns, horizontal designs. Layers and loose fit create illusion of more generous curves.
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Large
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High neckline and collars, excessive details & trim such as pockets; short sleeves; cropped jackets; high-waisted skirts; tightly cinched waists, contrasting belts.
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Open and V necklines; shoulder pads or broad shoulder designs. Generous draping on the top. Drop waistline in dresses. Over blouses. Moderate size belts same color as the top.
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Arms
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What to Avoid
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What to Look for
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Long or Thin
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¾ length sleeves or ones just above the wrist. Anything too tightly fitted.
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Long sleeves with wide cuffs. Pile on the bracelets, if appropriate, loose fitting sleeves.
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Short or Heavy
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Sleeves longer than wrist bone; capped or short. Excessive cuffs, particularly in contrasting color. Baggy sleeves or unnecessary bracelets.
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Sleeves ¾ length, pushed or rolled up. No longer than wrist bone.
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Waist
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What to Avoid
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What to Look for
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Long-Waist
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Long jackets, e.g. ¾ length, drop waists, belts in the same color as top.
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Cropped, bolero jackets or 7/8 or 9/10 lengths that just skim the shirt. Wide belts if waist allows, same color as the bottom. Empire/high waistlines look great.
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Short-Waist
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Gathered, full pleated waistlines; stiff tight fabric; details in pattern or design on hips, such as pockets.
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Either longer line jackets or short styles avoiding the hip area depending on your proportions. Soft easing at the waist to the side of tummy but not gathers or hip area. Center seam skirts help narrow the illusion.
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Thick Waist
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Drawing attention to the entire waistline; contrast at the waistline.
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1-1/2 belts (same color a garment worn, belt buckle a focal point, slacks with pleats & pressed creases, high or low-waisted styles, tunic tops, over blouse, chemises, loose vests or cardigans, blossom style dresses, one-piece bathing suits, no contrast between top and bottom
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Hips
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What to Avoid
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What to Look for
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Wide Hips
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Gathered, full pleated waistlines; stiff tight fabric; details in pattern or design on hips, such as pockets
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Either longer line jackets or short styles avoiding the hip area depending on your proportions. Soft easing at the waist to the side of tummy but not gathers over hip area. Center seam skirts help narrow the illusion
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Broad Bottom
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Shorts, trousers, straight tight skirts; short fitted jackets
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Skirts with ease at the waist and loose (not full) over the bottom. Longer jackets that end below the bottom; blouson or unstructured best. Bring attention to your upper half through use of color.
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Thighs and Legs
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What to Avoid
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What to Look for
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Heavy Thighs
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Tight or short skirts, leggings or shorts
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Softly gathered waistlines for skirts and trousers. Culottes can be both comfortable and flattering.
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Heavy Legs
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Short skirts, contrasting, colored, light or textured hosiery. Flat shoes.
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Longer skirts that end at the natural indentation below the knee or tea length (just above the ankle) depending on height. Tone hosiery to match shoes, and best if medium to dark (not opaque). Simple shoes with a slight heel.
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Skinny Legs
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Short skirts, contrasting or colored hosiery. Stiletto heels.
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Longer skirts or culottes. Lighter tone hosiery will make legs look fuller but should tone with hemline or shoe. Low or flat heels best.
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Short Legs
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Long or full skirts, wide trousers, palazzo pants, cuffs. Flat shoes or stiletto heels. Long jackets.
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Monochromatic, blends of color or one overall color. Tone hosiery with hemline and shoes. Low to medium heels best. Shorter skirts (depending on your legs), shorts, cropped trousers, short jackets.
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Tummies
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What to Avoid
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What to Look for
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Rounded
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Full gathered skirts, wide belts, fly front pants, pleated skirts from the waist band, straight, bouffant or gored skirts that cup under the tummy, horizontal lines at the tummy, clingy fabrics
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Over blouse with a soft hang, pants with a soft pleat and dart combination, chemise style dresses, flared or gored skirts, skirts with pleats that are sewn down, flat strong fabrics, waistless dresses, focal point at the face, pant zipper inside the left pocket
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Derriere
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What to Avoid
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What to Look for
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Flat
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Pants and skirts that sag or droop in the seat, one piece knits that cling, pencil-slim skirts
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Fullness to create shape off the waist on the backside, tapered jackets, two-piece garments, blouses worn belted on the outside of pants or skirts, box jackets with full skirts
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Protruding
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Any line that defines and exposes this feature will enlarge it
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Any skirt that flares from the waist, any gathered skirt, any A-line skirt, any jacket with a full skirt, a blazer length jacket for fitted skirts or pants (make sure hemline is even around)
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