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 Advanced Makeup Application

Advanced Makeup
Makeup Prep                        Simply Beautiful Makeup Tips         Seasonal Mineral Makeup Palettes
After determining whether you have blue (cool) or yellow (warm)  undertones in your skin (see Color Analysis Training System), you can begin to choose your makeup with confidence. You may request information on ordering colors that best suit your skin and hair color.
 Some hints for choosing your personal color palette:
Redheads or those with red highlights are generally warm toned.
Women with blond or brown hair are generally cool toned.
Gray hair looks best with the darker neutral colors since there is a high contrast between hair and skin tone, but you may be cool or warm-toned depending on what your natural hair color was.
When in doubt, purchase neutral colors.
The darker the hair, the darker the shade of feature makeup that can be worn.
 Makeup Prep
1.  Gently massage a damp, soft bristle toothbrush or washcloth over the lips to smooth away rough spots (gloss will stick to dead skin, magnifying it).  You may even want to put some toothpaste on the brush or cloth (yes, I said toothpaste). When the surface is smoooth and clean, dry the lips with a fresh towel.  Always apply a rich lip balm or moisturizer before bedtime if your lips tend to become chapped, especially in the winter.
2.  Choose a rosy neutral pencil that mimics your natural lip tone. Outline the mouth, staying just within the borders before coloring in the remainder.
3.  Lip liner should never be visible beneath your gloss ~ soften any obvious pencil marks with a fingertip or Q-tip.  To create a base for the lip gloss to adhere to, rub a clear waxy lip balm or anti-feathering product on top (these have water resistant properties that make them long-lasting).
4.  Pucker your lips as if giving a kiss, then spread gloss from the middle of the mouth to its perimeter by lightly patting with a fingertip or wand. Avoid going all the way to the rim, where color bleeds more easily.
5.  To deepen the shade and eke out a little more werar time, brush on another thin coat of gloss.
 Simply Beautiful Makeup Tips


 Color can be separated into two categories

Skin Tone-Stays the same unless you become tanner or paler. Skin tone is enhanced by: Foundation, Base, Concealer, Powder, Shading or Contouring.
Accessories-Change with your wardrobe and include: Eyeshadow, Mascara, Blush and Lip Color.

 Analyzing the Color of Your Skin Tone
Skin Tone
Characteristics
Your Normal Makeup Shade
Try
Light
If you have an ivory or porcelain complexion, then your skin tone is Light.
Ivory
Light Ivory
Ivory

Bisque
Light Beige

Nude
Nude

Light-Medium
If you have a rose beige, light olive, or ash brown complexion, then your skin tone is Light-Medium.
Almond
Shell
Natural Beige
Cream
Creamy Natural
Sand Beige
Porcelain
Cream Beige

Medium-Dark
If you have a yellow-beige, medium olive or rose-brown skin, then your skin tone is Medium-Dark.
Warmest Beige
Medium Beige
Buff
Pure Beige
Amber
Golden
Natural Tan
Honey
Soft Honey

Deep
If you have a dark olive, bronze, rich beige or black complexion, then your skin tone is Deep.
Toffee
Nutmeg
Beautiful Bronze
Spice
Mahogany
Earth


 The Right Foundation Formula for Your Skin
Skin Type
 Characteristics
       Needs
        Best Foundation
       Foundation
Normal/Combination
Rare breakouts; most oil in T-zone
A skin balancing formula that moisturizes and absorbs any oil
Liquid, cream-to-powder and mineral makeup
~Ideal Shade Liquid Foundation w/SPF10
~Perfect Wear Extralasting Liquid Foundation w/SPF15
~Ideal Shade Cream-to-powder w/SPF 1-
~Ideal Shade Smooth Mineral Makeup w/natural SPF protection
Dry
Often mature skin. Needs extra moisture, feels tight after cleansing, rare breakouts
A moisturizing formula and oil-based which adds emollients
Liquid with satin finish and mineral makeup with light diffusing particles.
~Ideal Shade Liquid Foundation w/SPG 10
~Ideal Shade Smooth Mineral Makeup w/natural SPF protection
Oily
Prone to breakouts, blackheads, large pores
Foundation with oil absorbers or go oil-free
Powder mineral foundation to naturally absorb oils or long wearing liquid foundation with matte
~Ideal Shade Smooth Mineral Makeup w/natural SPF protection
~Perfect Wear Extralasting Liquid Foundation w/SP 15

 Foundation
Which do I apply first, concealer or foundation?
Apply foundation and then concealer. By applying the foundation first, you see exactly where you still need more coverage. And as you apply the concealer, you will see if more or less is required.

How do I select the proper foundation shade for my skin?
The best place to test match your skin tone is on the chin and lower jaw area. To test a color, apply a small amount of foundation and feather out the blend. If the shade isn't quite right select the next shade up or down in tone. Expect that the foundation chosen in midsummer may be too dark in midwinter. The objective of foundation is to smooth and blend skin tone and color differences to a natural healthy look of natural skin. If it looks like a mask, (or feels that way) than too much has been applied. If you see no difference, you have applied too little. Remember foundation should help you look simply beautiful.


 Concealer
Sometimes I need a lot more coverage than my regular foundation can give me. What do you suggest I use?
When a great deal of coverage is needed in a specific area, don’t apply heavy foundation to compensate. Use a concealer which should be applied easier, faster and with better results.

How do I find the right concealer?
Forget all the rules on concealer: green covers red, yellow covers red and brown, orange covers blue. This doesn't seem simple. Many companies have developed concealers that match the skin tone. They are formulated with a great deal of pigment so a thin application will actually conceal or hide the various undertones. This makes the choice and application much easier and the results flawless. Simply pick the shade that best matches the skin tone at the lower eyelid.

Application Tip: Apply concealer with a small brush. This way you can apply the product in the same exact size and shape necessary. If you use your finger, the size of the area you cover is dependent on the size of your finger.

Where can I apply concealer for the best coverage?
Under the eyes where discoloration is prominent. Between the inner eye and the nose often shows discoloration that can pinch the nose area, making one look tired, and can give the appearance of changing the eyelid shape. At the outer eye, where the upper and lower lid join, there is often a dark line of discoloration that draws down that can be concealed. You can also apply concealer to cover broken blood vessels and skin irregularities.


 Powder
What is translucent powder used for?
Translucent powders are designed to “set” make-up. The powder absorbs the oil or moisture in the make-up to create a dry surface on the skin.
Translucent powders should not add color to your make-up. (Powders that incorporate foundations are used for coverage as a foundation and are not recommended for setting make-up)

Application Tip: A powder puff or large brush may be used to apply the powder as well as brush away any excess.

I tend to crease under the eyes when I apply powder, what am I doing wrong?
You should smooth the area underneath the eyes before powdering to insure your application is flawless before setting. If you have applied concealer thinly under the eyes, you will avoid creases. Powder does not create a crease or accentuate lines -- thick make-up on the thin tissue under the eye does.

 Shading/Contouring
Various companies have perfected shading or contouring powders. These brush on easily with a blush brush and are almost fool proof. If the shading is applied too heavy, you can minimize it with a little translucent powder.

I always hear about “shading” and “contouring” but what exactly are they
used for?
Most make-up artists use shading or contouring to minimize fullness under the jaw area, emphasize the cheek bones, or give the appearance of narrowing the width of the nose.


 Lips
How do I choose the perfect lip color?
Observe yourself but remember color is an accessory. What color is your
wardrobe and what color are you currently wearing? Select three colors in the same range-light, medium and dark. Try on each color and pick the one you feel most comfortable wearing.

I could really use some lipstick tips, any suggestions?
That depends on what you're going for. For a natural lip look-cover the entire lip area with a pencil close to your lips natural shade.
For intensified color-apply pencil over the entire lip area followed by a coordinating lipstick.
For fuller lips-outline lips slightly outside the lip line and fill in with lipstick. In most cases you will want a pencil slightly darker than the lipstick. (Remember the lips have more color then the surrounding skin. Therefore the darker pencil is necessary to compensate).
To correct uneven lips-Simply even the lips with the lip pencil and fill with lipstick.
To minimize lipstick bleeding-Outline the lips with a broad line using a lip pencil. Powder the pencil line. Fill in the lips with lipstick, but carry the lipstick just up to the lip pencil. This helps set a barrier for the more emollient lipstick.

 Blush
How do I know which shade of blush to wear?
Once the lipstick and lip pencil have been selected, simply choose a blush in the same color family.


 Shimmer and shine are really popular right now. What's the best way for real women to wear them without looking like teenagers?
Shimmer, shine, radiance and luminous glow have all become part of our makeup vocabulary in the past couple of years. They all describe healthy skin, which equals beauty today. Much of what we see in the media may seem over the top, but shimmer and shine are accessible to every woman.
Every woman, regardless of age, can apply a neutral shimmer cream high up on her cheekbones to play up bone structure. It can also be applied to eyes and lips. The key is to not apply it to an area that has fine lines or wrinkles, since shimmer will only emphasize them. That is one reason why the cheekbones are such a great way to go. Shimmer can also be worn on your collarbone if you wear an open top. The other important element is how much you apply. Only the very young should ever apply shimmer with a heavy hand. For the rest of us, start using a small amount, and then build up to a coverage that you think looks great.
Shine, another big trend, is more tricky to achieve. To achieve shine (or a healthy glow, a term I prefer), use a dewy or moisturizing formula foundation and apply powder with a very light hand. Apply a cream, stick or gloss formula color to eyes, and use a cream or gel blush on cheeks. Again, the key for "real" women (anyone who is not a teenage supermodel) is to pick and choose which feature you want to shine. Your lips? Your eyes? Your skin? Why not alternate? Makeup should be fun, so experiment. Try eye gloss one day with powder blush, glossy lips with powder eyeshadow the next. And remember, the most important shine comes from within.

 Makeup for Women Over 50
Question: Why do women over 50 need a separate makeup line?
Answer: Skin changes so makeup needs to change.
Question: What mistakes to most women over 50 make?
Answer: The biggest misconception is the the older women get, the more makeup they need.  
Question:  Can makeup be good for you?
Answer:  There is only one type that is! Mineral makeup is said to be because it's composed of four from-the-earth ingredients.
 SEASONAL MINERAL MAKEUP PALETTES

SPRING and AUTUMN Makeup Palettes
You have warm skin tones, with a golden or yellow undertone tone, and make-up that echoes these tones will make you look healthy and alive. Avoid blue-based cosmetics, which could make you look rather gray and drawn!
Adjust the following colors according to your skin tone as necessary. The darker your skintone, the darker the color palette can be.

Lipstick
Good daytime shades are Crystal Coral, Apricot Glow, Pink Berry
For more color, choose from Bronze, Malted Mineral or Plum Craze
Blusher
Blushed, Radiance or Golden Glow
For more color choose Hearty Peach, or Copper Glow
Eye Shadows
Try Bronzestone or Pink Sapphire on your eyelid and/or on the brow bone as a highlighter
Golden Glow, Enchanted Lilac and Pixie Dust are neutral shades which can be used on your eyelid and/or on the orbital bone
For more color, choose from Golden Moss, Cocoa Glow, or Russet Rock for your orbital bone
Eyeliner
Try using Cocoa Glow, Russet Rock or Golden Moss mineral eye shadows as a soft liner above and / or under your eye. For more definition, apply them wet (just mix with water).
Mascara
Brown is probably your best shade
Black will add more definition

 SUMMER and WINTER Makeup Palettes
You have cool skin tones, with a pink or blue undertone, and make-up that echoes these tones will make you look healthy and alive. Avoid yellow-based cosmetics, which can cause facial shadowing and make you look extremely unwell!

Adjust the following colors according to your skin tone as necessary. The darker your skintone, the darker the color palette can be.
Lipstick
Good daytime shades are Pink Berry, Pink Quartz or Rose Garnet
For more color, choose from Rumberry, Cranberry, Plum Craze
Blusher
Blushing Mauve, Rose Radiance or Golden Glow
For more color choose Perfect Plum, Blushed
Eye shadows
Try Rose Quartz or Mineral Ice on your eyelid and/or on the brow bone as a highlighter
Golden Glow and Pixie Dust are neutral shades which can be used on your eyelid and/or on the orbital bone
For more color, choose from Midnight Mauve, Enchanted Lilac, or Russet Rock for your orbital bone
Eyeliner
Try using Midnight Mauve or Russet Rock eye shadows as a soft liner above and / or under your eye. For more definition, apply them wet (just mix with water).
Mascara
Brown is probably your best shade
Black will add more definition

 Four from-the-earth ingredients in mineral makeup
Iron Oxides are natural pigments that give the product it's color.
Titanium Dioxide natually blocks UVA (aging rays) and UVB (burning rays of the sun) and gives SPF protection.
Zinc Oxide balances moisture
Bismuth Oxychloride, an anti-inflammatory, reduces redness.
What you won't find in mineral formulations are talc, fillers, oils, alcohol and chemical dyes.
Mineral makeup concealsl flaws and evens out skin tones without looking heavy. Coverage is buildable, long lasting, lightweight, stainproof, and won't clog pores, making it a great alternative for all skin types, from oily to sensitive. It's often used for it's healing agents, coverage for Rosecea and for post surgical patients.
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